Understanding Pearls
Pearls are the only gems produced by a living animal, and the only ones that are organic rather than mineral. That makes them uniquely beautiful and uniquely vulnerable.
The main types
Almost every pearl sold today is cultured — grown with human intervention rather than found by chance.
- Akoya — classic round white pearls with sharp, mirror-like lustre
- Freshwater — the most affordable, in the widest range of shapes and pastel colours
- Tahitian — naturally dark, from grey through green to aubergine
- South Sea — the largest and rarest, in white and deep gold
Judging quality
Lustre is the single most important factor — the sharpness of the reflection on the surface. A pearl with strong lustre looks lit from within; a dull one cannot be rescued by size or shape.
- Lustre — sharp reflections rather than a chalky surface
- Surface — the fewer blemishes the better, though some are normal
- Shape — perfectly round is rarest, but baroque shapes have real character
- Nacre thickness — thin nacre wears through and dulls within years
Caring for pearls
Nacre is soft and dissolves in acid, which includes perfume, hairspray, and ordinary perspiration. The old rule holds: pearls go on last and come off first.
Wipe them with a soft damp cloth after wearing, store them flat and away from other jewellery, and have strands restrung every couple of years if worn often.
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